Take control, adjust your controls that is

Want to make your ATV experience more enjoyable?  Want to increase your ability to go those long rides with less fatigue in your arms?  Want to do all this for free?  Of course you do!  Adjust your controls my friend.

It seems so elementary but many people fail to do this after buying their machine.  Whether it s a new machine or a used one, adjusting the controls to fit your particular body and riding style will surely help you enjoy your riding that new machine even more. Here is how to do it.

First off think about your natural riding position. Do you sit most of the time your riding or do you stand most of the time? Put both index fingers straight out to rest on the levers. Adjust the clutch (where applicable) and brake levers to make as straight of a line from your finger up through your wrist, hand and arm. If your a standing is what you do most of the time make sure your in the “attack” position.

The wrong way

The right way

Adjusting your levers is somewhat subjective but a general rule of thumb is you should never have to reach way up or way down to pull in either lever.

How it came to be…

The power sports industry is some what at a cross roads in my opinion.  The manufactures are trending to wards more discipline specific machines, following what the motorcycle side of the business has been doing for the last 20 years.  Example Yamaha’s YFZ450, you have the “R” model more focused to wards motocross racing and the “X” model that is focused to wards off road/woods racing. The differences are subtle (just like their motorcycle brethren), but enough to make each model more specialized to the needs of  that particular discipline.

This prompts me to look back at the older models that I have had experiences with and somewhat compare to what we have today. First off in the past an ATV was sort of a generic term for any machine with 4 wheels. The general public barely had a grasp on the concept that there were two different types of machines under the the umbrella term ATV.  Of course we as offroaders know these two to be Sport and Utility.  Just recently added is the SxS market which now has its own division but that is another topic for another day.

Back to the discussion at hand.  I am going to look back at my own experiences with machines gone past, give a brief opinion of what I thought at the time as well as opine on if the model would be a good choice for someone looking in the used market. In this economy the used market is becoming a more prominent area for the new ATV rider as well as the established rider to find their next machine.

3 wheelers, I have already written about them and my introduction to riding through them so there is no need to rehash it here.

Team MGR rider Derek Hinrich on the 250X in one of its last races before retirement

1987 Honda TRX250X

 Starting off with probably hands down the quad I have had the most experience with.  This very ATV (pictured left) has been passed around our group so many times I forget who owned it when.  This thing did everything: race, ride, loaner quad, you name it.  My impression then: Excellent starter quad, 5 speed manual lets you control the power and when you want to shift just like a racer, but tame power for the beginning-intermediate skill level.  Ride is cushy and can handle moderate jumping.

Now: Still an excellent beginner ATV, bullet proof from almost every prospective.  Suspension is not all that bad but benefits from at least an upgraded rear shock.  This machine holds its value pretty well so as long as you don’t over pay when you buy it you should expect to at least get 80-90% of your money back when you sell.

Actual LT250R I have ridden, owned by Team MGR team mate Chris Flodine

1987 Suzuki LT250R

 This collectible gem can be credited with starting the sport/race ATV segment of the industry.  This particular model is the 3rd year of production featuring an update engine with a power valve and a variation of Suzuki’s first full floater link-aged suspension.  My impression then:  Wickedly fast on a motocross track.  Handles well, jumps straight, feels like a true race machine should.  Suspension is plush in the rough stuff but compliant for big g-outs and triple jumps.

Now: Still a very collectible machine.  A bit underrated and overshadowed by Honda’s TRX250R that was a response to this machine.  Engine can be finicky to tune and the power valve on later models are complicated and expensive to replace/repair.  Suzuki’s full floater might have been the best idea for a linkage type suspension however it had twice the parts of a conventional rocker arm type thus more parts to grease and wear out.  Suspension on used machines is usually thrashed.  Parts are not easily crossed between some model years.  Wickedly fast and still competitive in the amateur ranks.

1989 Yamaha YFS200 “Blaster”

 Yamaha’s entry level machine to capitalizing on the ever growing sport market.  Not quite a full size machine but not quite a youth machine.  My thoughts then:  This thing is terrible.  Feels like Yamaha went into the parts bin and just grabbed an engine from a street bike (converted to air cooling), frame, wheels and tires from other motorcycles and ATVs to produce a machine.  Engine is peaky and is all top end power.  Rear shock is mismatched to the frame and swing arm geometry.  Rear shock is a linkless design.   Suspension is not very adjustable and unfortunately what adjustment there is does not help the lack of damping this thing just bounces around.  The handling is not helped by the balloon type tires on the rear.

Now: Almost zero updates in its whole production run.  It took until 2002 for hydraulic front brakes to be added.  Previous models have drum brakes that are almost impossible to adjust so each functions equally.  Balloon tires? Really? Need I say more.  Best mods are to add some length to the swing arm, better shocks all the way around. Longer A-arms help stability.  Square profile “sport” tires in the rear.  Flywheel weight helps power delivery.  Know what your buying when buying used.  This ATV is not for everyone.

1995 Yamaha YFZ350 “Banshee”

 The legendary dune machine.  Yamaha originally developed this in response to Suzuki and Honda’s 250cc sport machines.  Using a variation of a 350cc twin 2 stroke street bike engine the Banshee lived up to its name.  My thoughts then:  I only had a brief encounter in a sandy trail area.  Blindingly fast in a straight line but suspension felt like it had none.  The length helped the straight line stability and off the line launches, but was a major hindrance in the trails.  The thing just would not turn without deliberate effort.  Motocross track, nope not without some serious modifications to the suspension and engine for better more palatable power delivery.

Now:  If your into strictly dune riding this is the machine, even in bone stock for this machine will climb, jump and out run most anything (with the right rider).  Unfortunately this is all the machine does good.  Its not a very good trail machine nor a race machine for the track.  Extensive modifications can be made to it though to make it handle terrain better but it will cost you.  This machine is not for everybody, expect used machines to be molested in some way and plan on tuning it to your liking before you will feel comfortable on it.

Team MGR rider Chris Flodine on his 400EX

2001 Honda TRX400EX

 The machine that rekindled the sport ATV market in 1999.  Honda borrowed its tried and true 400cc engine from the XR400 dirt bike and threw it into a frame reminiscent of the 250R of the past.  My thoughts then:  Finally a machine that put it all back together again.  Similar in nature to the 250X of nearly a decade before it, the 400EX is just a larger package.  Plenty of power all around, decent suspension for track or trail with a bit of adjust ability out back, front shocks lacking but no more than other ATVs.  Aftermarket is plentiful with BBK’s and other parts to tailor it to the rider.

Now:  The 400EX started showing its age in about 2005.  It has seen no major update since its inception other than a reverse gear in 2006.  MSRP’s have steadily risen but performance has stayed stagnant.  Used machines are the best bet here.  The ATV as a whole is rock solid reliable.  Aftermarket parts are still plentiful.  Best mods include, better front shocks, different cam profile, exhaust and a few other ergonomic upgrades.  The machine is still a good ATV in stock trim for light racing, but serious racers look elsewhere.

2001 Yamaha YFM660R “Raptor”

 Yamaha’s answer to the question no one asked, “Bigger is better, right?”  The Raptor is the first of its kind, a big bore sport quad (excluding the LT500R of the past).  Engine borrowed from another one of Yamaha’s motorcycles not imported to the U.S.  My impression then:  Loads of torque.  The engine is a stump puller nearly identical to the Grizzly.  The whole package is compact if a bit top heavy.  Frame, suspension might be a bit under built for how much power the engine puts out.  Suspension is a bit stiff out of the box but has enough adjust ability to suit most recreational riders.  Not as at home on the track but if lowered a bit it can be made to handle well enough.

Now:  The 660 was replaced by the more capable and more well thought out 700R meaning you can only find these used.  In my opinion there is no reason to look for a used 660 now that there are used 700′s on the market.  The 660 was a half half hearted attempt to progress the big bore sport quad market but really this ATV doesn’t do much well in comparison to other models available on the used market.

2004 Suzuki LTZ400

Suzuki’s late to the party entry into the sport market.  Engine borrowed from the instant legend DRZ400 off road and dual sport motorcycle.  My impression then:  Wow! this is what the 400EX should have been.  Water cooled, modern shocks, light weight frame, powerful high reving engine.  This ATV is happy on the trail as well as the track.  Not much modification needed to be a competitive racer even against custom built 250R clones.  Aftermarket parts are plentiful to maximize the potential on and off the track.  MSRP not much more than the Honda.

Now:  The Z400 has seen steady updates and refinements over the years and recently adopted EFI.  Used Z400′s hold their value fairly well compared to other models.  Look for 2006 and up, those models feature fully adjustable suspension components.  Best mod on carburated machines is finding a Keihin 39mm FCR carburetor to replace the anemic CV Mikuni BSR36.  The FCR is found standard on early model DRZ400″E” models.  Also swapping camshafts from that bike will move the power up the rev range a tad making this an even more high performing ATV.

The 450′s….

I have only had brief encounters with the early 450′s, Yamaha’s 2004 YFZ450 (actually only a 440cc engine to comply with the ATVA rules at the time) and Honda’s TRX450R.  Both I thought were amazing at the time, but their was not much to compare to at the time.  Today they are pushing to wards more genre specific, motocross and off road.  This is a good thing, unlike the early years where every ATV was a compromise on all around performance.

There you have it my opinions on machines of the past that I have had explicit experiences with.  Some may agree and some may disagree.  Feel free to discuss it on our own ATV Magazine Forum

Quick Tip: Fixing a carburetor float

OK I know more and more ATV’s are coming equipped with EFI (electronic fuel injection), but the overwhelming majority of used machines in service still have carburetors.  The purpose of a carburetor float is to maintain the proper amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl for both the pilot circuit and main jet to draw fuel into the venturi from.  If you are experiencing fuel flowing out the overflow tubes (usually running out under the machine) its a good chance your float is sinking.  The chief reason the float sinks is that it over time it can get a pin hole leak, most commonly it happens around the solder joint where the float arm attach’s on a brass float, on a plastic float it happens where the brass arm is pressed onto the float bodies.  Either way the float bodies sink thus leaving the needle valve open letting unrestricted fuel into the bowl flooding the carburetor and in some cases running fuel straight into the cylinder washing down into the crankcase-”not good”.  What do you do?  Well if the float is still available from the OEM that is one route, although in some cases the part is obsolete.

Over the years working on vintage bikes I have come across a trick to fix obsolete floats or save money buying sometimes expensive OEM or NOS-OEM floats.  I have found a product called POR-15 (Paint Over Rust formula 15)   I actually stumbled across this “miss-application” by accident while using the product for rust prevention/elimination while doing automotive restorations.  I had been spraying panels and fender wells with the stuff and after trying to clean up recently dried POR-15 I found that all the solvents I tried would not dissolve this stuff including gasoline.  Well after ruining a spray gun, it got me thinking of a current motorcycle project I was working on (1973 Kawasaki 350 triple) that needed all 3 floats replaced and since the bike is somewhat rare and nearly all carburetor parts are obsolete, I dipped the floats into the POR-15 let it dry completely and then put them in a can with some gasoline overnight.  Sure enough the floats, floated and the POR-15 was intact and still hard.

The quick fix

So long story short, if your in need of a quick fix for a sinking float that is either very expensive or not available, try POR-15.  Note: the manufacture does not whats so ever claim this as an application nor recommend that its product be used in this manor, nor warranties it for this purpose. Use at your own risk.

For more information about POR-15 CLICK HERE

Back to the old stomping grounds

As this holiday weekend approaches a lot of us will be celebrating our freedom to vacation when and where we choose by traveling to that hallowed riding spot that we have some eternal connection with.  For many the reason may be because it is with in a 5 minute drive from the house, a scenic place with good camping or in my case its the place where I grew up riding that WAS less than a 5 minute drive from my house, now that has stretched out to a 6 hour drive.

Back in the 80's this place held an annual harescramble

The place I am talking about is in Harlan County Nebraska at a little place developed by the US Army Corp. of Engineers in the early 80′s.  My memories of this place start back when my dad raced a few hare scrambles put on by a local racer that organizes motocross races in the same area.  The place had nearly perfect terrain for a hare scramble.  The terrain had hills, trees, and mud.  The hare scrambles were always fun to watch, and maybe that was mostly because my dad was in it.  As a matter of fact my dad was always racing on the oldest bike there a 1974 Yamaha SC500. Remember this was in the 80′s!  After a few years of hare scrambles the place would be nearly defunct as in it would be only ridden by locals such as us.  Even big holiday weekends would turn out less than 10 or so riders for the entire weekend.  The trail was never maintained at all during the entire time period that we rode it. 

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Special tools for special jobs

If your a do-it-yourself type of person it is sometimes hard to determine where your abilities as well as your tool set end and when to call in and expert-a atv/motorcycle specific mechanic.  This article will suggest a few of these special tools that can be had fairly inexpensively.  Having these tools will also allow the do-it-yourself er to tackle more of the routine maintenance that other people would pay a shop $80 an hour to do. If you have not read my introductory article on “Getting your toolbox started” Read that first before proceeding.

Typical spark plug wrench designed for water cooled 2 stroke engines

Spark Plug wrench: Alright now most people would not consider this a “special” tool but in some cases (depending on engine design and model of ATV) a more specialized wrench other than a standard socket and ratchet is needed or just makes the job easier. Using either one of the tools shown makes accessing some spark plugs much simpler and faster. Think of it this way instead of hunting in your tool box for the correct sized open end wrench or that socket and ratchet, keep these handy for quick removal. I suggest buying one for each bike you have and storing it on the machine some where.

One type of wrench for air cooled or water cooled engines with recessed spark plug(s)

Assortment of axle nut wrenches

Axle nut wrench: This tool is especially helpful and almost necessary for proper removal or checking the tightness of your axle nuts or replacing the carrier bearings. It always seems that they loosen at the most inopportune times. With out this tool it is nearly impossible for most people to service their axle. Atv axle nuts typically run in the 40-50mm size range. Ham fist-ed mechanics and do-it-yourself-ers typically get out a pipe wrench or if they happen to have a 24 inch adjustable (Cresent) wrench to do the job. This is the best way to strip or round off the corners of the axle nuts thus necessitating replacement. Again I suggest buying the correct size for each machine you have and keeping them in the toolbox you take riding.

One type of valve adjustment feeler gauges

Valve adjustment tools: If you read my recent article “Lashing out, valve adjustments a brief introduction” I spoke about the different types of valve train arrangements. Well when it comes to tools it will depend on what you have. Feeler gauges are mandatory to do your own valve adjustments. Get the kind specifically for motorcycles, they are either bent with a 45 degree or 90 degree angle to get into the tight spots.

Universal Clutch holding tool

Clutch basket holding tool: If you have a fully manual or semi-automatic
transmission/clutch, this is one of those tools that is not always necessary (if you have shop air and an impact) but it always makes doing any type of clutch work a snap, especially if your replacing the basket or inner hub and bearings. There are several different types ranging from the universal style to ones from the OEM that are make and model specific. If you ever plan on doing your own clutch work this is an indispensable tool that is relativity cheap.

Flywheel puller: This tool is somewhat universal as in typically there are only a few sizes and threading that it will not fit. This tool is mandatory if you ever plan on doing ANY repairs or upgrades to your ignition system as well as repairs to the left side crank bearing and seal. This is another fairly inexpensive tool to have on hand in case you need to get to the ignition pickup that is behind the flywheel or take the flywheel off for lightening.

Typical flywheel puller

Snap ring pliers: Here is one that you will need if you start going deeper into internal engine repairs as many gears and shafts are retained by snap rings. One thing to note is buy the best quality you can, cheap pliers are just that, cheap, and generally break or bend on the larger snap rings. Trust me I have learned the hard way on this busting many knuckles.

Snap ring pliers

Piston pin puller: This tool is sometimes required to remove the piston from the connecting rod during a top end rebuild. Its the only way to get the bin out if its somehow wedged or worn that it will not slide out by hand. By the way some pins are a press fit and a puller is absolutely required.

Typical piston wrist pin puller

Alright I could go on and on getting deeper and deeper into more machine specific and job specific into the internal engine repairs, I just wanted to give an introduction into some of the most common “specialized” tools that the home mechanic will invariably need doing their own repairs.

Now when to take the machine into a professional for service is a tough one and its basically up to the riders discretion. Personally I take my machine in for jobs requiring extremely specialized tools that would cost $500 or more just to complete one step in the repair process. Examples would be: Boring or reaming cylinders or valve seats, replacement of valve guides and seats, crank bearing replacement, crank splitting, cylinder sleeve replacement and the list goes on. Unless your doing these operations on your equipment frequently enough, these tools are too expensive to have sitting around just for a once in the machines lifetime repair. Obviously you need to be skilled with some of these operations and that is where leaving it to a professional shop really pays, as most warranty their work for a period of time against workmanship.

In conclusion the tools listed above will allow the competent home mechanic to broaden his/her abilities to save a bit of labor cost on somewhat more labor intensive repairs than just changing the oil and filter.

Fuel injection killed the carburetor star?

For all the old fogies out there-there is no getting around it, fuel injection on small engines found in ATV and motorcycles is here to stay as well as being the wave of the future.  This article will give an introduction into a typical fuel injection system as well as comparing and contrasting between its mechanical counterpart-the carburetor.

In its basic comparison EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) is electro-mechanical where as a carburetor is purely mechanical.  Because the carburetor is still most common and still widely used on motorcycles and ATVs we will take a look at the basic parts and operation first, then break EFI down into its parts comparing them to the carburetor.

The most basic carburetor

The Carburetor:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The carburetor in one form or another has been around almost as long as the explosion engine.  Simply put carburetor is a means of metering the fuel and air in respects to engine demand.  Over the years as engines  became more efficient as well as more powerful the carburetor evolved into a somewhat complex piece of engineering.  A couple of main parts make up the primary function of the carb, and they are as follows.

Throat or Venturi: Depending on who you talk to it can be referred to either, but simply put the throat is where the incoming air mixes with the fuel and is drawn into the engine.  It is also tapered in from one end to the other, this taper causes what is known as the Venturi Effect.

Float Bowl: This is where the incoming fuel is stored before its drawn up into the throat to be mixed with the air.  It houses many other vital parts most notably the float (regulates the fuel level in the bowl), main, pilot/slow jets, as well as tubes for venting and overflow when the bike is laid on its side or upside down.

Throttle valve/slide: This part regulates how much air can pass through the throat.  The throttle valve simply is a round disk that opens and closes the inlet via throttle input, these types of carbs are sometimes known as CV (constant velocity) type.  A throttle slide sits in the middle of the carburetor body and moves up and down via throttle input, it also raises and lowers the jet needle that regulates how much fuel can pass through the main jet.  CV type carbs also have throttle slides but they are operated via intake vacuum based on engine demand.

Jets: Simply these are small machined brass parts with differing sized holes used strictly to meter how much fuel (or air in the case of an air jet) can pass through.

To sum up its operation a carburetor works purely on the laws of physics most of its operation works on the differential in atmospheric pressures in and outside of the carburetor itself.  Its these differentials that cause the air to flow through the carburetor and also draw the fuel up out of the bowl to be mixed and drawn into the engine.  The metering of the fuel is ultimately controlled by the jets themselves.

Typical fuel injector

Electronic Fuel Injection or EFI:

 

 

 

Electronic fuel injection (as we know it today) has been around going on 20+ years in the automotive industry but has only just recently become cost effective and reliable enough for use on off road motorcycles and ATVs.  Below are some of the common parts to a typical EFI system found on ATVs.

Injector: The injector is, to a certain extent, a replacement for the jets and needle as found in the carburetor.  It is usually located in the intake just behind the intake valve on ATV type engines, however automobiles locate them in various places within the air intake system and the trend is to put them into the combustion chamber (a-la diesel) known as direct injection.  No ATV to date has this design.  The injector uses a small solenoid that opens and closes a tiny valve letting fuel through in precise amounts and at precise times.  It is operated electrically via outputs from the ECM.  The injector is in no way controlled by engine demand or air flow.

ECM(U): Stands for Electronic Control Module(Unit), it is the brains of the system.  The ECM takes inputs from various sensors computes the inputs (usually voltage or resistance variations) against a set program of parameters (such as “IF THEN” statements) and send outputs to the various parts such as the ignition system or injector(s) telling them when you pulse and for how long.  Basically the ECM is mans attempt at replacing the natural physics that allow a mechanical carburetor to function.

TPS: Stands for Throttle Position Sensor.  Like its name it is a small rheostat switch (like a volume knob on a stereo) that varies a voltage signal to the ECM telling how much the throttle valve is open.  It is located on the throttle body near the throttle valve shaft.

Throttle body: As its name implies it houses the throttle valve as well as a few other sensors.  Its primary job is to channel the air into the intake providing a place to regulate the incoming air.

MAP and or MAS: Manifold Air Pressure and or Mass Airflow Sensor.  Both of these sensors function differently but are designed to output the same data to the ECM.  They are located somewhere in the intake.  The main difference is a MAP sensor reads intake vacuum where as the MAS reads the air flow moving through the intake tract directly.  Either way the output is telling the ECM how much air is flowing through the intake so it can make the appropriate calculations as to how long and how much fuel the engine needs.

Temperature sensors:  Generically there are usually two of these, one to measure engine coolant or head temps and an air temperature sensor to monitor the ambient air temperature.  The sensors output a resistance signal to the ECM to let it know how hot the engine is as well as what the temperature is outside.

As you can tell even in this very brief description EFI systems are very complicated and a lot of R&D goes into developing a well performing system that can infinitely adjust for nearly any situation.  Although with all this precise metering of air and fuel comes the Achilles heal of an electronic system.  As long as every part in the engine is operating perfectly within tolerance and each sensor is functioning properly giving the correct signal and EFI motor will usually run circles around an exact replica of a carbureted engine.  One failure or part being out of spec can cause havoc for the ECM giving it a false sense of what the engine really needs or its operation.  For example if the engine coolant temp sensor is not reading correctly (reading 80 degrees) while the engine is actually up to temperature (typically 180-200 degrees) the ECM will be constantly trying to increase the fuel to the engine in an attempt to raise it up to normal operating temperature even though it actually is up to temperature.

You will notice I left out a common part that automotive and most street bike engines have is an O2 (oxygen) sensor.  I left it out because most off road and ATVs don’t have one.  ATVs usually don’t have one mainly for design and packaging problems for the exhaust, it simply would be in the way or susceptible to damage.  Being they typically don’t use an O2 sensor ATVs run in open loop (meaning the ECM runs on a set program from the factory with no way of knowing how well the engine has burnt the fuel)  Where as systems with O2 sensors can be designed to run a combination of open or close loop (closed loop meaning the ECM takes an exhaust reading via the O2 sensor to verify how well the fuel is being burned) typically these systems are designed to run open loop for warm up and then switch to closed loop for normal operation.

Alright there is waaay more I could elaborate on but there are just too many intricacies with EFI to cover it all with out boring the reader anymore than I already have.  My goal was to introduce some of the main parts of each type of carburetion while letting the reader determine the pros and cons of each type of fuel metering system.  EFI is the wave of the future and I see more and more machines following this trend, but if your a die hard carburetor fan don’t fret I don’t see carbs going the way of the dinosaurs for at least another 20 years or more.

Happy tuning!

Lashing out, valve adjustments a brief introduction

I got inspiration for this article from a forum topic that comes up every now and again, valve adjustments.  The specific question or issue from the forum member was about his quad being increasingly harder to start and performance was declining over time.  Of course this is a broad issue as there are many factors that can contribute to the problem at hand, but it was mentioned by a member replying to the thread that some (or all) of the problem could be attributed to valve clearances (lash) being out of the specified range.  It got me to thinking, “How many people actually know that valve adjustments are part of routine maintenance”.  In this article I will go through some of the basics and importance of routine checks for proper clearances of the valve train.  Since there are many different variations on valve arrangements and designs each with strengths and weaknesses, I will just focus on the most common designs.  Being that the end result is the same I will spare the in depth procedure for each type.  Always consult your service manual for proper procedure and tolerances for your engine as each engine is slightly different.

There are three common designs of valve train adjustments used on most ATVs

Valve adjusting screw

Set screw and jamb nut: It is only found on engines that use rocker arms that ride on the cam to actuate the valves.  It is most commonly found on low performance type engines found in “play quads” where reliability and ease of manufacture and maintenance are high priority.  It consists of a set screw and jamb nut that is located on the end of the rocker arm that pushes on the valve, by turning the screw in or out to adjust the clearance between the valve stem and the tip of the screw then locking down the nut sets the proper clearance.  The big advantage to this design is it is simple and relatively easy for anybody to do and not necessarily requiring any special tools.

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Bouncin' back, maintain your suspension

Next to improving your riding skills, the suspension is probably the most important or easiest and most cost effective way to increase your speed on the trail or track.  In the coming articles I will go in-depth on the different designs and types of suspensions as well as some theory and tuning tips, but in this primer I will discuss the most important thing you should do before even trying to tune your suspension.  Maintenance!

Before you can effectively tune any suspension on any machine you need it to be in near perfect condition.  If you have never disassembled any part of your machines suspension since you have owned the machine, chances are its well over due.  Neglecting the maintenance on the items that keep the wheels (and ultimately the power) to the ground can cause costly repairs down the road, not to mention a poorly handling machine.

Where to start?

Its best to start from the front and work to the rear.  Jack or lift your machine so that the wheels are off the ground.  Take each front wheel and check for excessive play in the wheel bearings by grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and try to rock the rim/tire back and forth.  Watch and feel the bearing for any play.  Most wheel bearings on ATVs are non serviceable meaning if you feel any play you cannot adjust the pre-load nor grease them, thus replacement is the only option.  Repeat for the other side. 

Next focus on the a-arm(s) ,depending on the type of front suspension you have, check all mounting points and bushings (or bearings) for play.  Some models have grease zerks but most do not.  If your model does not you will need to disassemble the a-arms and put some waterproof grease in the bushings (or bearings).  Again excessive play warrants replacement as it is cheaper to replace an inexpensive bushing that letting it wear through the bushing into the steel of the arm itself.  On McPherson strut type machines you will want to pay close attention to the top mounting stud to be sure the nut is tight and the rubber bushings are in good shape.

Finish in the rear

Depending on the type and design you will want to look at some of the similar things as the front suspension.  The carrier bearing is probably the most expensive wear item on a swing arm machine, not to mention its the hardest to replace, so keep an eye on it so you don’t ruin your swing arm.  Swing arm and the shock linkage bearings should come next.  A quick way to check to see if they are worn or the bolts need tightening is to lift up on the grab bar while the tires are on the ground.  It might be helpful to have a friend do this as you watch around the bearing mounting flanges and the linkage areas for play.  While lifting up slowly you might even be able to feel the play all the way back at the grab bar.  The rear suspension is a place that many riders neglect and when its worn out it can cause damage to more expensive parts.  Rebuild kits are inexpensive and for the most part easy to install with basic hand tools.  If there is little or no play a good cleaning and re-greasing should be an annual maintenance item.  On IRS type machines the same type of checks should be performed  as on the front.  Another area to take a look at is the lower and upper shock mounts.  On some types of shocks there are grease-able bearings others use  bushings, use the same judgment and replace as necessary.

Tips and suggestions

If your trying to remove the old bearings from the linkage block (on a link-aged type swing arm) and they are being stubborn.  Use an inexpensive arbor press use a socket just small enough to fit inside the bore and press the old bearings out.  A large bench vise can be used as well with some creativity.  If neither of those are available, find a welding or machine shop, they usually have different presses and may do it for a nominal fee.

If your machine did not come with grease zerks on the a-arm bushings install some yourself.  This can be kind of involved but basically drill and tap a hole for a standard zerk.  This will require a full disassemble.

Water-proof marine grease works well for suspension parts, although some atv/motorcycle specific greases are available as well.

The time you take now can keep you from having to replace expensive parts later.  Also getting your suspension mounting points in tip top shape will get you ready for future articles when I go in depth into the other workings of the suspension.  I will take each subject separate as there is a lot of material to cover, so stay tuned!

Spark plug cleaning, save ole sparky for another day

Don't let this ruin your day when you don't have a spare plug to replace it.

Hard core racers change spark plugs before every race to insure that they don’t have a DNF from a simple inexpensive part.  But for the rest of us that cannot afford to throw a plug away after every ride or race.  Especially because some of our machines require those iridium style plugs that can be up to $14 each!  Here is a nifty tool that can make worn or carbon fouled plugs new again, or at least new enough to be a spare back up plug to carry in case of emergencies.  The tool runs off of air with some abrasive that “blasts” the plug to remove deposits to allow the fouled plug to fire again.  It only takes a few blasts of air to clean a typical carbon or oil fouled plug, so you could do this with a portable air tank.  This makes it possible to bring it (with air tank) with you in your tool box.  Now obviously this will not fix plugs that failed because of cracked insulators, eroded electrodes, or other physical damage.  Best part about this tool is it can be had for under $10, well worth the price to extend the life of a plug that has electrodes that are in good shape but just is fouled to the point that electricity will not jump the gap.

Spark Plug Cleaner

The plug after cleaning, not perfect but this will now fire and get you back on the the trail.

Reflections of machines gone past…

1970 ATC90 my first offroad vehicle, age 3

Now I know this is an ATV site but nearly anyone should be able to relate to the following story. Everyone has that one or many machines that bring back a fond memory of the past.

What ever you want to call it, reminiscing, memories or just shameless self promotion. I was vacationing back at my old stomping grounds in Nebraska where I grew up on my folks farm. While I was back there I ended up helping my folks clean up from the ending harvest season which ultimately meant putting all our restored and currently ridden bikes into winter storage, to make room for the farm equipment. This meant moving them from the main shop into a dedicated storage shed. Hold on, maybe I better back this up a bit.

1978 CT70 my first motorcycle

I grew up on a family farm that my folks still farm to this day. My dad and mom rode motorcycles in the 60′s and 70′s so naturally that was one of the hobbies growing up (that and restoring old cars). Being a farmer we never got rid of anything because “you never know when you may need this or that”. Some of my school mates rode as well and in those days we bought bikes for nothing fixed them, rode them, fixed them, rode them and on. The phrase “RAMP IT!” seemed to claim a lot of bikes back then. Usually the night before a ride we had to fix what we broke the weekend before, and many parts were just hard to find. This was before E-Bay so trips to motorcycle boneyards and leads on junk bikes were regular occurrences.

Of course along the way we collected bikes and restored them not really for show, but just for fun and to make reliable drivers out of them. I did this throughout my teens and twenty’s through college. Graduating college and starting a career the bikes of my past got pushed back into storage as I scaled back a bit (student loans can do that you know) I carefully selected only a few bikes that I could store and ride in my new “home”. For these I chose my Kawasaki KX250 for track and trail riding, Gas Gas TXT321 for trials, and KZ400 for commuting (later to be replaced by my Buell XB9SX). This meant I had to put all the rest on hold for the future.

Fast forward to the future (present). I was getting a bit nostalgic and as I pushed the bikes around I decided to get a group photo of all the old bikes from my past. Each bike has its own little story about it, whether it be how I acquired it or some memorable event while riding it. It should be noted that really none of these bikes are worth a fortune, some have historical significance and are collectible for that reason, but most just carry sentimental value. Possibly in future articles I might delve into some of the bikes are tell my story about the bike as well as telling a bit of history about the bike from when it was new.

Feel free to express some of your fond memories of bikes or atvs of your past in the comment area.

The line up, does not include my race bikes and modern bikes.

A little closer look...

Lots of good times standing in front of me...

A few others awaiting my mid-life crisis

click below for videos

Team MGR memories

Team MGR from way back

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