Take control, adjust your controls that is

Want to make your ATV experience more enjoyable?  Want to increase your ability to go those long rides with less fatigue in your arms?  Want to do all this for free?  Of course you do!  Adjust your controls my friend.

It seems so elementary but many people fail to do this after buying their machine.  Whether it s a new machine or a used one, adjusting the controls to fit your particular body and riding style will surely help you enjoy your riding that new machine even more. Here is how to do it.

First off think about your natural riding position. Do you sit most of the time your riding or do you stand most of the time? Put both index fingers straight out to rest on the levers. Adjust the clutch (where applicable) and brake levers to make as straight of a line from your finger up through your wrist, hand and arm. If your a standing is what you do most of the time make sure your in the “attack” position.

Adjusting your levers is somewhat subjective but a general rule of thumb is you should never have to reach way up or way down to pull in either lever.

Understanding ATV Oil Viscosity Ratings

Oil is the blood that keeps an ATV engine pumping. It creates a film to lubricate and separate the parts and reduce wear. It also removes heat from an engine. OK, so you know an engine needs oil in order to function, but what do the numbers and letter on a container of oil mean?

Viscosity is the measure of how easily oil flows at a given temperature. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) determines oil viscosity through regimented test procedures. Thin oils (lightweight) have a low viscosity rating, thicker oils (heavyweight) have a higher viscosity rating. Most oils today have two ratings — the first number is a rating at low temperatures and the other is its rating at warmer temperatures. These are called multi-viscosity lubricants.

The letter “W” on a bottle of 5W-30 stands for “Winter.” It has a viscosity rating of 5 at 0 degrees F, which is relatively thin so it will flow easily when cold. The second number refers to the oil’s thickness at warmer temperatures — the lower the viscosity, the thinner the oil. Oil rated 10W-30 will be a little thicker at startup, but once the engine reaches normal operating temperature, its characteristics will be the same as the 5W-30 lube. A 20W-50 oil, for example, is common in some high-performance ATV engines because its thicker viscosity won’t break down in high-heat applications like racing. If you use your quad in a cold climate, this might be too thick, especially at startup.

Most oil viscosity ratings are between 0 and 50. An oil that’s too thin won’t provide adequate protection if the engine is run hard or used in hot weather. Oil that’s too thick might not allow the engine to turn over in extremely cold weather, nor would it flow well enough to provide adequate protection of the piston, cylinder, valves, camshaft, rocker arms and related engine parts when the engine is cold.

Bringing new riders into the sport

From time to time we all run into or meet new people that are eager to get into the sport, and because most of us are thrilled to share the joys of the sport we all know and love, we are more than happy to introduce and teach the “new blood” all there is to know about riding ATV and motorcycles.  Problem is we as the unofficial mentor of this new rider tend to get overzealous and over-estimate the new riders abilities (from our own excitement).  Over estimating this new riders abilities can either present a less than desirable outcome and in some cases present a dangerous situation for this “newb”.  Below are some considerations to keep in mind when introducing a new rider to the sport for the very first time. [Read more]

Chain gang, does it need replaced?

As spring rolls around and the weather for most of us starts showing signs of becoming moderate, we start getting the itch to ride more frequently it is time to get that machine out of storage.  Now if you have followed my previous tips on how to put your machine away for those winter months, you probably already have check your chain and put a good coating of some sort of rust preventative spray on it.  But you may have not checked it closely for wear, or put off replacing it because “Its in winter storage, I will do that later”.  Well later is here and no one wants to be stranded, DNF’ed or inconvenienced on the first ride or race out after the off season with a broken or sloppy chain.

Now obviously this only applies to those of us with chain final drive ATV (primarily sport ATVs and older Utes). There are only 2 basic types of chain – standard and o-ring (also x-ring but it is similar to o-ring).

Standard Chain

A good visual inspection will tell you a lot.  If the chain’s rollers and side plates are extensively rusted as in there is absolutely no shiny metal showing, throw it out.  If there is only slight surface rust you will need to remove it to check it out further.  After removing the chain fold it over on itself in half.  If you can lay the ends side by side the rollers and side plates are worn out and the chain is nearing it’s useful life.  Also if there is missing rollers it is time for a new one.  You can also measure a new chain and compare that to your old chain’s measurements and replace when the old chain stretches 2% over the new chain.

O-ring and X-ring Chain

Basically the same things apply to these types of chains, except since they contain little neoprene or rubber O-rings to seal in  the lubricant for the roller bearings it requires a more scrutinizing.  If the chain checks out on all the above criteria, but O-rings are missing, cracked, torn, or just generally worn to the point that the lubricant can be seen leaking past them, the chain should be replaced soon.

As with both types of chains it is almost mandatory to replace the sprockets along with the chain to maximize the life of all the components.  Running a new chain on old sprockets drastically shortens the life of the new chain’s rollers.  So with the new ridding season upon us don’t overlook one of the most overlooked parts on a chain driven machine – the chain.

Action Alert! CPSC to develop rules for SxS's

Action Alert!  Side by Side owners and enthusiasts need to stand up and be heard.  Now I don’t have a huge interest in (ROVs) Side by Sides but here is a link to a preformed response that will be sent to the Office of the Secretary, CPSC. Personalize the message all you want. The Americans for Responsible Recreational Access (ARRA) have made it easy to take just a minute or two to voice your opinion.  Follow this link to the Americans for Responsible Recreational Access (ARRA) Link to personalize your message

Get Some GRUB: ATV Style

If you own an Apple iPhone/iPad Touch and are an “App-oholic” then I think you should go get some grub. No, not in the sense of grabbing a six-pack of tacos at a fast-food joint, but instead downloading ATV GRUB for your favorite electronic “toy.” Essentially, ATV Grub hooks you up with ATV news (blogs) from all over the Web in one location and eliminates the need to search for ATV and off-road news. The developer said the App operates in a “super clean and organized format.”

Here’s a user’s feedback about ATV GRUB: ” ATV love! — The update for this app has done justice. It runs smoother, has better animation at startup, and if you love your ATV you’ll love this app! I am so happy to see ATV apps on here finally, i look under iTunes and there is barely any good atv videos. I love my 09 YFZ450R and from this app, I can look at parts, reviews, and other cool things. Way to go ! Keep up with the updates!” Vic Ellison- Corning NY (source ATV GRUB)

ATV Grub features news feeds and posts from several ATV enthusiast blogs (including this one) and established sites like GNCC Racing and ATVSport.com, F0ur-Wheeler Mag and more.

I’m in need of a phone overhaul — with the text messages I receive but do not send — and thought about stepping up to an iPhone. If I do, I’m going to satisfy my ATV appetite with ATV GRUB.

Other GRUB APPS:

BMX

MX

BEAUTY

CYCLING

SKATE

American company acquires foreign company? Polaris?

It may seem shocking to most, especially in this recession as well as the state of the country where typically the news headlines talk mostly about American companies leaving or being acquired by foreign entities.  The somewhat shocking news of the exact opposite happening raises and eyebrow for me.  This company is Polaris of all companies.  Now not being a hard core fan or follower of Polaris’s development of machines over the years I will be brief.  My perceptions of Polaris’s ATV’s are mixed.   I see the small displacement and older models very problematic, while the newer models are light years ahead of previous models and fairly reliable in the long run.  What does this have to do with the recent acquisition of Swiss Auto power sports?  I think Polaris will be coming out with some very exciting and probably radical ATV and motorcycle designs that people actually want to buy.  Even though I probably will never buy a Polaris I am excited in them taking a risk in developing new engines and technology that can only help the industry as a whole in the future.

To read the press release follow this LINK.   To read a more in depth analysis on the acquisition CLICK HERE

Weight Watchers, get your machine on a diet part 4

If you have been following this series you know that the ultimate goal is to shave weight to increase the machines performance whether it be on the track or the trail.

The next area of study will be with rotational weight.  Some of these tips and tricks will require some internal engine work and may not be practical for the average rider but I will touch on some of the basics.

Any item that rotates on an axis has rotational weight.  Adding and subtracting weight on these various items have positive and negative effects.  Depending on your overall performance goals, this will determine which way to go.

The flywheel is an area that gets modified quite frequently by engine tuners.  Adding weight increases tractability and the ability to resist stalling in slow, tight, technical maneuvers at the expense of being quick revving.  On the converse lightening the flywheel provides a quick responsive revving engine at the expense of loss of tractability and makes the engine easier to stall in tight technical situations.  Examples of this are evident with removable flywheel weights and inner rotor kits.

Along similar lines as the flywheel is the clutch assembly (hub, basket, plates and springs) aftermarket companies have gone to great lengths to develop lightweight but durable components to replace the typical stock cast/machined aluminum piece. For example machining from a once piece of billet gives the engineer the freedom to make an overall lighter component while still maintaining sufficient strength and wear characteristics. The same can be said for the clutch springs themselves using titanium vs. spring steel.

The other major source is the sprocket, axle, wheel and tire combo that makes up a significant portion of rotational weight. In the previous articles I discussed ways to loose a few ounces and pounds by selecting lighter parts, for more information consult those articles.

Well there you have it a very brief look at some areas to focus on if a lightweight better performing machine is your goal.

Quick tip: Removing small oil seals.

Eventually that ATV of yours will spring oil leaks.  The most common place for leaks is around any shaft that protrudes out of the engine case near or below the oil level inside the engine.  Over time these seals simple dry out and wear out.  Unfortunately many of these oil seals are too small for a conventional seal puller or there is high risk of damaging more parts using a chisel and hammer.   Before you fret over an expensive labor intensive process of removing engine covers or splitting the cases try this little trick.

Using a small drill bit and two #8 drywall screws you can make quick work of that shift shaft, kick start, or counter shaft seal.  Here is how to do it.

Step 1: Drain the fluids (oil) for obvious reasons.

Step 2: Using a small drill bit, drill two holes 180 degrees apart into the rim of the seal.

Step 3: With pliers yank on each screw alternating to remove the seal.  Most seals will remove with just a little effort.  If they are stuck more than that try using a small slide hammer and it should pop right out.

Aww #%@*!, Removing damaged fasteners tips and tricks.

Everyone has seen it or come across it at least once in their lifetime while working on their ATV or motorcycle, a damaged fastener. This can happen by the fault of not being patient, using the wrong tools, or just plain ignorance. Damaged fasteners are commonly found on used equipment since most neglected ATVs are hastily maintained with a pair of vise grips and a hammer by their cousin “Earl”. Often times though even relatively new machines can come in contact with “Happy hour Harry” on the assembly line or dealership neglecting to tighten or over tightening a bolt. There is also the fact that certain fasteners just wear out over time if they are taken in and out frequently. What ever the cause broken, stripped, buggered fasteners can be a real pain in the rump. What follows are some quick tips and tools that can make repairing these “Uh-Oh’s” into “Hurray!” and leave you looking like and ace mechanic.

The most common damaged fastener is the bolt with a stripped or rounded head. Before you barrow that pair of vise grips from Earl’s tool box try some of these tools instead. Bolt extractors for example the Bolt-Out(tm) by Craftsman.  These type of tools look like a socket with sharp fluted reverse spirals inside to grip the head and turn it.  For stripped phillips and flat head screws first try taking in hacksaw or rotary tool with a small cut off wheel and cutting a slot in the top then try removing the screw.  If that fails or there is insufficient room to get those tools in the space try a screw extractors such as the GrabBit(tm) which contains a pilot drill on one end and the extractor on the other.  These work well for relatively small bolts and screws.

For larger bolts and screw you will need to use larger screw or bolt extractors such as Easy-Outs(tm).  These require you to drill the appropriate sized pilot hole fairly centered in the bolt.  These can be the saving grace on bolts with broken heads where there is no stud exposed for a stud extractor.  One thing to be aware of is extractors are made of high carbon steel that is very hard, seldom do they break but they can break or twist apart and if you twist one off into a stud they are almost impossible to remove and most common drill bits will not drill into them, more on that later.

Having discussed some common methods of removing fasteners that already had damaged heads or were broken off in the hole lets look at some techniques to eliminate having to resort to those measures.  The most common ways a bolt head gets damaged or broken are, using the wrong tool, wrench, or socket thus rounding off the corners.  Another way is simply the bolt is rusted or corroded in the threads “locking” it in place.  This happens for a variety of reasons but its mostly chemical reactions between dissimilar metals, air and moisture.  I could go into detail on which metals react with each other but for the sake of this discussion I will forgo the explanation.

Ok so the bolt is stuck and will not move under normal circumstances using the correct tools, so what do

you do?  First try the  easiest solution grab a can of your favorite penetrating oil.  Use it liberally let it set a few minutes and try to remove the bolt.  If it is a bolt and nut combination or its not a blind hole make sure you spray the backside as well as most oils are designed to “creep” into the threads but this generally doesn’t get too far.  Chances are if the bolt is really rusted in there penetrating oil will do nothing so it will be on to a bit more of a persuasive measure.  If you remember one of my other articles I recommended that an impact driver should be a part of any tool box, well here is where it can become a life line.  Using the impact driver (with either a socket or screwdriver bit) you can shock the bolt in an attempt to free the bond of rust or corrosion.  The impact driver does two things at once: first it shocks the bolt then it simultaneously turns it counterclockwise in an attempt to loosen the bolt or screw.  Usually it only takes a few good strikes of the hammer to free the bolt and in some cases the bolt will then come out by hand.

CAUTION: What follows should only be attempted by professionals with proper safety equipment and knowledge of the tools.

The next step and probably the most extreme is using heat from a oxy-acetylene torch to heat up the bolt in question to aid in its removal. This technique is best done with two people, obviously this can only be performed by someone with the right equipment and knowledge on how to use it properly and safely. Ideally welders and metal smiths would use what is called a rose bud for heating up metallic objects but in this case a rose bud is probably going to apply too much heat over a large area. Instead use a number 4 or 6 welding tip on the torch body this way the heat can be more focused and controllable as not to accidentally damage other parts from the intense heat. Before you start remove any and all combustible materials from the work area, this includes the fuel tank and carburetor to reduce the risk of fire from igniting fumes. Also depending on the bolt in question it may be necessary to make a crude heat shield from some sheet tin, old license plate, or a piece of steel to protect rubber, plastic, electrical wires or any other thing that could be damaged by indirect heat. The key to this technique is to heat only the bolt or nut while using some of the above techniques and this should allow the bolt to free itself from the rust or corrosion without damaging the head or threads.

And last but not least if heating the bolt won’t make it budge, it may be time for desperate measures,

drilling and re-taping. The key to this solution is starting your pilot hole as centered on the broken, buggered head as possible. Using progressively larger drill bits, drill into the bolt until you have removed all the material of the original bolt. Now using the correct sized tap for the new hole you just drilled create new threads and replace with the appropriate sized bolt.

I saved the best tip for last. The one that could keep you from ever having to resort to the above mentioned solutions for removing stubborn fasteners. Anti-seize compound plain and simple, use it anytime you put a bolt or nut back in place especially into blind holes. Anti-seize compound nearly eliminates corrosion and rust forming on the threads which is the basis of causing a bolt to get stuck into a threaded hole. As with anything always consult your service manual for proper torque values for each fastener to eliminate damaged threads.

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